Where to eat in Calabria: the army of young chefs
Where to eat in Calabria: the army of young chefs
Stories of young Calabrian chefs: for some years now the group of chefs from the region furthest from the gastronomic hype has been waking up. That’s who I am.
To discover the beauties of a territory there is no better experience, and let’s face it, more satisfying than tasting. If you are planning a long weekend or already planning your summer vacation, choose the south as your route, mark Calabria on your map .Calabria is becoming a hotbed of new generation of haute cuisine and eight very young people are worth the visitHere you can follow a haute cuisine itinerary that unfolds throughout the region revealing the cultural, aromatic and chromatic richness of this land. Guided by young chefs moved by the sacred fire of the culinary art. We are talking about the new generation of the Calabrian gastronomic scenario, average age 27, proponent of a creative ferment that has now taken the form of a gastronomic promotion format called Cooking Soon. Each operates in an area well characterized by traditions and landscape heritage, and as a true ambassador represents it and tells it in a fresh and new way. Crossing the door of their restaurants you can experience little-known worlds that have so many excellences to offer. If your travel idea is to enjoy a new and equally fascinating Italy from a sensorial point of view, all you have to do is pack your bags.
- Starting from the extreme north of Calabria, from the Pollino massif, you can make your first foray into Calabrian cuisine in Saracena, a medieval village renowned for Moscato Passito. Osteria Porta del Vaglio , is a delightful creative forge that also gives space to the works of local artists, led by Gennaro di Pace , 30 years old. Here the traditional background of the territory is well represented, interpreted in a light way. Among the main dishes are Sybaris rice with turnip with blue cheese and pears, marinated cod and Moscato aspic. (Vico I Santa Maria Maddalena, 12, 87010 – Saracena, CS – tel. 098119 4655)
- Always remaining on the mountain Calabria, but this time on the Sila, in Camigliatello, there is a gourmet inn that made history under the guidance of Pietro and Denise Lecce , La Tavernetta . Today his son Emanuele, 22 years old, leads the kitchen. Each treasure guarded among these lush peaks is worked on bringing the legacy of tradition to essentiality. The result is an excellent high altitude fresco. A must of the place, the Sybaris risotto creamed with the Moro (cow’s milk cheese typical of this area) and the Magliocco. (C / da Campo San Lorenzo, 14, 87052 – Camigliatello Silano, CS – tel. 0984 579026)
- In the capital of Sila, in San Giovanni in Fiore, inside the Biafora Resort , Antonio Biafora , 29, together with his brother Luca, continues the legacy of his grandparents and parents. In the dishes proposed there is research that goes to the roots of mountain and sea cuisine, and there is no lack of instinct. The flavors are expressed in an elegant and linear way. Try the spaghetti with brawn provaturu and beer foam and the raw podolica with broad beans, morchella mushrooms and “their land”. (C / da Garga – San Giovanni in Fiore, CS – tel. 0984 970078)
- Going down towards the Ionian Sea, you will find a Michelin star in Strongoli. The Dattilo restaurant is the pearl of the Ceraudo family’s agricultural estate. The kitchen is governed by the little one of the house, Caterina Ceraudo , 27, capable of gracefully enhancing and elaborating the biodiversity of this part of Calabria. On the plate it serves history and freshness. The shrimp tartare sandwich is delicious. We recommend the tasting of buttons in ‘nduja and almond broth, tripe panzanella and mullet with crispy bread and oranges. (Contrada Maremonti, 88816 – Strongoli, KR – tel. 0962 865613)
- Further south, on the beach of Crotone, the Novezerodue is the stop for those who do not want to give up fish cuisine. Emanuele Strigaro , 26, signs acts of love for the sea every day and seasons everything with imagination. Raw fish and tortello stuffed with octopus, sautéed with lime butter and warm leek sauce are two specialties not to be missed. (viale antonio Gramsci – Crotone – tel. 0962 29637)
- In Catanzaro another Michelin Star shines, the High Local Cuisine. In the control room Luca Abbruzzino , who took over from his father Antonio. Calabria told by this 27-year-old talent is conceptual, essential and creative. It is inspired by simple home dishes, such as pasta with tomato sauce, and celebrates the excellence of tradition. Do not miss the fusilloni alla ‘nduja, pecorino cheese and sea urchins, the squid with peppers and potatoes, the rice with spring onion, licorice and squid. (Viale Fiume Busento, Santo Janni locality, 88100 – Catanzaro – tel. 0961 799008)
- The San Domenico offers one of the most beautiful views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. It is located in Pizzo Calabro . Bruno Tassone , 25 years old, works in the kitchen . Its motto is simplicity. It does not add frills to the menu that expresses a lot of determination and enhances the raw material. Its main dish is the octopus tentacle cooked at low temperature and plated with grilled potato, black olive powder and sweet garlic cream. (via Colapesce, 2, 89812 – Pizzo, VV – cell 327 5971692)
- Surrounded by centuries-old olive groves, on the slopes of the Aspromonte, in Santa Cristina, Villa Rossi welcomes those in search of well-being and emotions. In this charming old farmhouse Nino Rossi , 33, experiments with cooking techniques to enhance the quality of the raw materials of his territory (home of stockfish). It puts creativity to good use through a spasmodic search for perfection and harmony. The dish that represents him is the very soft amberjack cheek, courgette stock, raw and tempura courgette flower, stracciatella, caviar and smoked air. (Locality Calabretto, 1 – S. Cristina D’aspromonte, Rc – 0966 878800 cell 324 8489554)