Waiting for Taste of Roma: amatriciana according to Angelo Troiani


Waiting for Taste of Roma: amatriciana according to Angelo Troiani

From 17 to 20 September Taste of Roma returns: we asked one of the chefs, Angelo Troiani, to explain his interpretation of the amatriciana.

What do starred chefs do with tradition, with typical recipes? First they study them, then after having made them their own in the slavish respect of customs, they rework them giving them new life, introducing innovative cooking techniques or varying the ingredients and trying to keep the original flavor within balance. One of the most famous cases is the amatriciana of Angelo Troiani , chef and patron of the starred restaurant Il Convivio Troiani and executive chef of Acquolina Hostaria, the only starred chef in Rome for a cuisine exclusively based on fish. Chef Troiani will be present at the Taste of Roma event , scheduled at the Auditorium (viale De Coubertin, 30)  from 17 to 20 September , with his seafood specialty restaurant.

Angelo Troiani

During the event Angelo will take the stage of the Electrolux Taste Theater , together with the other chefs, precisely to tell his cooking philosophy through the illustration of the dishes. To carry us forward, we asked chef Troiani to tell us about his particular elaboration of a traditional Roman and Lazio dish: the amatriciana , present unchanged on the menu at his restaurant for almost 25 years: ” I wanted to reproduce the balance of the flavors of the amatriciana traditional by making some changes, both as ingredients and as preparation, to seek a new balance between acidity and sweetness, flavor and spiciness, between tomato, bacon, chilli and pecorino ”.

 

  1. ingredients for amatriciana2The ingredients for 4 people include 180 g of bacon, 12 tablespoons of fresh tomato, 8 tablespoons of peeled tomatoes, 5 tablespoons of unaged balsamic vinegar, 120 g of pecorino romano, 2 tablespoons of finely chopped copper onion, 1/6 of a clove of garlic reduced in cream, 360 g of spaghettoni or vermicelli with holes, black pepper and chilli. Troiani explains: “The fresh tomato I use is, according to season, the Cuore di bue, the San Marzano or the Casalino: sometimes I mix them to balance the acidity of one with the sweetness of the other, in case the acidity stands out I regulate myself by using less balsamic vinegar. While for the peeled tomatoes I prefer those from the hills, less sweet than those grown near the sea; if whole they must be drained from the preserving liquid, but I keep the vegetation water inside “.
  2. Boil the salted water for the pasta. In the meantime, place a steel or iron pan on very low heat and melt the fat of 90 g of bacon cut into fine julienne strips, continuing to cook until all the fat has become slightly golden. Add the onion and continue cooking over a very low heat until it has lost all the vegetation water and becomes transparent. Only at this moment add the garlic reduced in cream, then blend with the balsamic vinegar, raising to medium heat to facilitate evaporation. Once evaporated, add all the tomatoes, a pinch of coarse salt, the red pepper and the freshly ground black pepper, in an appropriate quantity at the desired level of spiciness. The chef explains to us: “From when the tomato is added, the time needed to finish the sauce is the same as when cooking the pasta ”, then put the spaghettoni or vermicelli with holes in the water that will have boiled in the meantime.
  3. The bacon sautéed in lardSeparately, in a steel pan, cook the remaining bacon, cut into a match larger than the previous one, over low heat, until all the fat has melted and the bacon has become crispy. Drain on absorbent kitchen paper and set aside until ready to serve; drain the pasta al dente. Remove the bacon from the tomato sauce with which you started the preparation, because ” the sauce must be very tight, it must be able to fit, stick to the surface of the pasta “. Stir the pasta for a short time, just enough for the sauce to mix, without continuing for too long, otherwise the starch escaping could make the dish too creamy.
  4. amatriciana troianiWith the fire off, add 80 g of grated pecorino romano and sauté briefly to distribute it evenly, or stir with two forks to avoid annoying splashes. Arrange the pasta on the plates, finishing with the crispy bacon and the remaining coarsely grated pecorino, so that it does not melt with the heat. Eat quickly and voraciously.

This is one of the workhorses of Angelo Troiani, executive chef of Acquolina Hostaria, his interpretation of a classic of Lazio cuisine. The beauty of seeing chefs of this stature in an event with Taste of Roma is also this, the possibility of seeing them at work tasting some of their dishes, and stealing tricks and secrets that can be reproduced at home. Things to do at the Electrolux Taste Theater, where the chefs will cook and explain the steps, clearing up doubts and answering questions. We’ll be there, what about you?


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