The Best of 2015: chef of the year


The Best of 2015: chef of the year

Every year we elect the one who is the most interesting chef for us, based on the many visits made. Find out who he is for 2015.

 

Every end of December, the author who has filmed the most, according to an opinion shared by the group, is in charge of choosing the best chefs by category, including Chef of the Year. For 2015, our man is Alfonso Isinelli, perhaps to date one of the most expert and attentive critics of gastronomy and wine in Italy. What follows is therefore the opinion of Alfonso, shared by the entire editorial staff of Agrodolce. Lorenza Fumelli

Among the many Marquesan pupils, there are those who have risen to the limelight of critics and beyond and those who for years have remained, even voluntarily, in the shadows, while cooking at the highest levels, often better than their most celebrated colleagues. After having gone to visit them, it must be stated, without fear of denial, that the visits to Gardone Riviera at Lido 84 by Riccardo Camanini and to Fagnano Olona by Silvio Salmoiraghi at Acquerello are indispensable, to get to know two great protagonists of contemporary Italian cuisine.

Riccardo Camanini

We have already talked about Camanini starting from the dazzling, how rare, exhibition at the Strade della Mozzarella last April, when his aubergine definitely shook my palate. In his charming and relaxing restaurant on the Garda shore, Riccardo has been officiating for two years now, after his long experience about a hundred meters away in Villa Fiordaliso. Here we offer an upbeat cuisine, essential, centered on taste : the stracchino risotto with lake sardines, grilled eel with sweet garlic cream, soft-boiled kidney, rose cake, even the discussed forkful of spaghetti with brewer’s yeast butter, are dishes not to be missed in a great Italian restaurant.

Salmoiraghi

Like those of Salmoiraghi in Fagnano Olona, ​​which does not even have the advantage – so to speak – of the location, placed as it is in a village like many others around Busto Arsizio. Great friend of Paolo Lopriore , they went to work together at the time of the Marquesan albereta in Erbusco, and with him he shares a stylistic stamp which, however, declines on techniques learned around the world, mediated and translated into dishes of personality, in which there is no lack of sometimes the thread of polite provocation. As in spaghetti alla carrettiera, where the sauce is hidden under the pasta that will no longer be served during lunch, because without an adequate portion it would not make sense. And we will not miss it, inebriated by the journey, between Venice and the East of the sea soaked, marinated shrimps, fried baby squids, reduction of apple cider vinegar, honey and orange juice. And then a tribute to this year’s mild autumn, with pumpkin, winter eggplant, persimmon, olive and caviar sauce , a pout-pourri of textures, vegetables, sweetness and flavor. Followed by a double knockout with Milanese pigeon: breaded, fried in butter, perfectly cooked red. Then the  Pekingese snails(yes, served as if they were the classic duck) accompanied by a cup of pigeon broth. And, as from Camanini, a very good loaf of bread to accompany everything. And also for this, but not only for this, chapeau to the two chefs of the year .


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