Statera: the contemporary Peruvian haute cuisine of André Patsias


Statera: the contemporary Peruvian haute cuisine of André Patsias

We had dinner at Statera, a Peruvian haute cuisine restaurant in Lima and tasted the cuisine of the young André Patsias.

André Patsias , almost 29, is the very young cook of Statera , a restaurant of contemporary Peruvian haute cuisine. In his curriculum he boasts experiences with great chefs on the world scene:  Andoni Luis Aduriz del Mugaritz (near San Sebastian in Spain),  René Redzepi del Noma (Copenhagen) Virgilio Martinez del Central (Lima). She has Greek-Peruvian origins, a flood of enthusiasm, just as talented.

We went to visit him in Lima for a tour of restaurants of the highest level: Maido , Central , Isolina Taberna, La Mar  in order 1st, 2nd, 12th and 26th in the list of the best restaurants in Latin America ( Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants ) and Statera has all the credentials to rejoin that group soon.

The most striking thing about the young André is how clear his philosophy is : all dishes are part of a single discourse. Eating here, in fact, means taking a journey through Peru , in all its different places, landscapes and ecosystems, looking for endemic and often unknown ingredients, a philosophy probably inspired by another great of world cuisine, Rodolfo Guzman (Borago of Santiago de Chile).

André’s exploration to discover Peru becomes the real menu , extremely creative and built around the main ingredients cataloged in relation to the Peruvian environment to which they belong: from the mangroves of Tumbes to the coast, from the Andes to the south, from the Highlands to the Amazon.

The dishes are beautiful and all good. Despite the use of particular ingredients, very far from our palate, I found them generally tasty and balanced, with a nice boost on acidity. During dinner, you cannot help but ask for information and deepen to better understand what you have in front of you, so the dialogue with the chef and the dining room is continuous, necessary, interesting. And not only for us Europeans: even in Peru – according to what they told us – hardly anyone eats many of the ingredients that have been served to us.

One of these in particular is the black conch . Our young chef is so close to our heart that he made us take a flight of almost 2 hours to go north of Peru, into the mangroves, to discover how these particular molluscs are caught: literally diving into the mud. They are a protected endemic species, they can only be harvested by hand, with extreme care and – as André suggests – possibly alternating them with other more common species, precisely so as not to affect their presence too much.

André is part of that group of young chefs who want to carry on their territory using more difficult, more sustainable products and inserting an enormous dose of creativity into recipes. They are contemporary chefs who maintain a bond with tradition but fly very high on different concepts.

In this case, the geography of Peru guides André in every choice and makes the guest take a unique path. So if you happen to be in Lima, don’t miss the opportunity to visit him in the beautiful Miraflores district (Mariscal La Mar 463, Lima, Peru).


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