Rome: to know and appreciate caviar, from Paris there is Caviar Kaspia


Rome: to know and appreciate caviar, from Paris there is Caviar Kaspia

Caviar Kaspia has opened in Rome, a place inside Palazzo Rhinoceros where you can taste the caviar-based dishes of chef Giovanni Giammarino.

Art, hospitality and gastronomy are the pillars on which Palazzo Rhinoceros in Rome rests . The exhibition space, by the Alda Fendi Esperimenti foundation, is a place to visit but also to live in ,caviar kaspia’s roman office uses the dishes of chef giovanni giammarinothanks to the 24 residences built by the archistar Jean Nouvel. On the top floor there is the Roman declination of the famous Parisian restaurant Caviar Kaspia , from whose terraces you can enjoy an incredible view of some of the symbolic monuments of the capital. In the kitchen the chef Giovanni Giammarino , who designed and created a menustimulating, suitable for gourmet palates, in which creative elements are inserted in concrete and well-structured dishes. You can start with an Octopus, tomato, spinach and sour cream. Continue with a luxurious Marchesi Tribute, in which cold noodles are combined with lemon, almonds and caviar. Among the second courses, the Saltimbocca di Scesante is appreciated, with star aniseed carrot and purple potato chips. In addition to the technical solidity, chef Giammarino strikes a certain elegance and his rather singular path.

caviar kaspia

You can boast an impressive resume but it all started with a bold U-turn in the professional arena.
I am 41 years old but up to 29 I was an orchestra conductor. I can also boast a good career, mostly in Germany. When I got to certain levels, I realized that it was not my environment, I was very disappointed by the public and by the critics and for this I decided to follow my second passion.

Somehow, however, the link with Germany has not been interrupted.
In the meantime I had met Heinz Beck , he generously accepted my request to enter the kitchen. I grew up in La Pergola, where I started as an intern and took leave of being Chef Saucier. He taught me everything I could learn. At the time I was young and for love I decided to stay in Rome, giving up becoming Heinz’s sous chef in some restaurants abroad (Portugal, Dubai, Tokyo). After that, however, I ended up in Sao Paulo in Brazil at Alex Atala’s DOM and finally at Robuchon’s Atelier in Paris.

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Tell us about the gastronomic project linked to Palazzo Rhinoceros.
Alda Fendi’s building hosts The Rooms of Rome, which is part of the Room Mate group, a large Spanish hotel company. Inside is our restaurant in franchise with Caviar Kaspia. In addition to the brand, they essentially supply the product, which we use in their signature dishes starting with the tasting of the 4 caviars , including the Royal Beluga which is the most delicious. For the rest there are my recipes, mainly based on fish.

What are the most obvious influences on the menu you have created?
Obviously I was very inspired by classic French cuisine. As recently underlined in an interview by the great chef Perbellini, whoever wants to do this job must know the good things that come from France: this is where the basis of international cuisine comes from. To this baggage I add a targeted work on Italian culture and therefore on the product. Even the use of modern techniques such as vacuum packing, low temperature, reverse spherification, etc., is aimed at exalting the raw material.

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How does the Caviar Kaspia offer differ during the day?
In the morning our restaurant serves as a breakfast room. At lunch there is a narrower menu and a bar menu with the classic Club Sandwiches , salads, poached eggs with caviar, salmon tasting and the dessert menu which remains unchanged from dinner. In the evening, however, the offer becomes decidedly more complex.

Is there a tasting itinerary?
For the moment we have chosen not to propose a tasting menu, we will probably talk about it again in the spring when we can also take full advantage of the splendid terraces we have. One part will become a sort of extension of the restaurant, while the rest of the spaces will be used as a cocktail bar.

What about the wine list?
Alessia Meli, our restaurant manager, named the best sommelier in Italy a few years ago, takes care of the cellar. Its selection is extremely interesting: only fifty labels but all thought out: excellent but niche wines, which allow us to offer excellent bottles at affordable prices. In addition to the wines there is some beers although for us it is not an important focus.

Unlike the Parisian venue, Caviar Kaspia’s prices in Rome seem more contained. What is the average expense?
At lunch we are around 50 euros while at dinner for an appetizer, first course, second course and dessert we get to 85 on average, always excluding wines. Clearly, if you opt for caviar-based dishes, the situation changes.


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