Natural wines: 10 places for enthusiasts in Milan
Natural wines: 10 places for enthusiasts in Milan
If you are passionate about natural wines or are approaching this world, we suggest 10 perfect places to taste and drink well.
The wine is an ancient food, but not uncomplicated. It requires knowledge and techniques, expanded and modified several times over the course of history: the wine mentioned in the Bible or the one discovered at the bottom of ancient amphorae is certainly not the same one that can be found in supermarket bottles. Compared to a few millennia or even centuries ago, the vines, production methods,in milan there is no shortage of choices and many places have specializedyeasts and sugars used for fermentation. Modern wine is a reliable, controlled, pleasant and predictable drink; far too much, according to proponents of natural wine. Natural wine is produced starting from organic grapes harvested by hand, without the addition of selected yeasts and additives that can modify its authentic characteristics: there is no reference disciplinary, but generally acidity correctors, added sulphites are avoided, assorted enzymes – all ingredients that manufacturers are not required by law to indicate on the label. But each natural wine, with the peculiarities of its own vineyards, of the cellar and of its tradition, makes its own story: the best way to discover natural wines is therefore the tasting in person, in the cellars or in the dedicated wine bars that begin to be present also in big cities. In Milan obviously there is no shortage of choices: in recent years there are several places that have decided to specialize or include natural wines in their list.
- Vinoir (ripa di Porta Ticinese 93b) was one of the first specialized wine shops, dedicated to natural wines since 2011. Born as a small takeaway and serving wine shop, overlooking the Naviglio Grande, today it has expanded and also includes a gastronomic offer, with bistro dishes. On the shelves there are still handwritten notes, which tell the wines to the most experienced customers as well as to the simple curious.
- Another place of dissemination, since 2013, is Vinello , in Piazza Gambara 4. According to the words of the founder Paola Messa, “ drinking natural wine is a choice without alternative, environmentalist, almost political ”. The environment, despite the somewhat peripheral position, is refined, rustic just the necessary to match with the natural wines that are offered by the glass or in the bottle.
- Recently opened is the Enoteca Naturale e / n , in via Santa Croce 1. The restaurant is located inside Casa Emergency, in front of the Romanesque basilica of Sant’Eustorgio: it enjoys a large space, colored tables and a passion for wines that are good before they are processed. The Natural Enoteca shares the ideology of Emergency, therefore part of the staff is made up of asylum seekers in training.
- In the Isola district, the first natural wines by the glass can be found at Surlì (via Thaon di Revel 12): a place that seems to have room almost only for the counter. In fact, not much else is needed: a few stools are enough to stop and listen to the stories of the boys who explain how Surlì means “ on the yeasts ”, a reference to the spontaneous fermentation in the bottle typical of natural bubbles.
- A few streets away, Cru (via Ugo Bassi 24) offers a much more austere environment, made up of wood and metal. In the center, however, there is the counter, accompanied by a blackboard on which natural wines by the glass are written every day, white, red or “orange”, that is, prepared by leaving the skins in contact with the must, to macerate and change color and taste of wine.
- In a barely visible street of Porta Venezia, among the many new openings that animate the area, there is the elegant and contemporary Vineria Eretica (via Rosolino Pilo 14) by Giuseppe Bertini, who has traveled the world as a flight attendant and now tells about Italy and European countries through their natural wines.
- More colorful and chaotic is Linearetta (viale Coni Zugna 14), a place where the passion for natural wines goes hand in hand with that for craft beers and traditional Italian food: the necessary condition to re-enter the menu is that food and drink have undergone as few manipulations as possible. The subtitle is “ osteria minima ”: it is one of the few places in Milan where a glass of natural red can be paired with traditional dishes such as pappardelle with wild boar sauce or stew with potatoes.
- Another place to accompany dinner with natural wines is the Tipografia Alimentare in via Dolomiti 1. The place is proposed as a bistro, wine bar and meeting place; many are the neighborhood events that take place here, on mismatched chairs but chosen with an eye to aesthetics, as befits a venue on the northern borders of NoLo.
- Traditional in name and presentation is Vino , the wine shop in via Pier Lombardo 9. In front of the Parenti theater, a tiny room with a few wooden stools and tables, which form a whole with the structure of shelves that preserve this that really matters: the natural wines selected, told and proposed for tasting.
- Champagne Socialist (via Lecco) is a wine shop and wine bar entirely dedicated to natural wines and raw wines . Dozens of labels by the glass, in addition to the hundreds kept in the restaurant including Italian, French, German, Austrian and Spanish. To eat, inspired by Spanish locals, there is a nice selection of Iberian conservas .