In Turkey, research cuisine has something to say: Turk by Fatih Tutak


In Turkey, research cuisine has something to say: Turk by Fatih Tutak

We went to Turkey to eat in Chef Fatih Tutak’s restaurant and explore the gastronomic delights of Istanbul – that’s how it went.

I have been to Istanbul twice and both times I thought I was in one of the most beautiful cities in the world . There is something magical in those streets, in the alleys, in the profile of monuments and mosques and you feel you are walking in places where a lot of European history has developed, crossing and clashing with that of the East. Istanbul is a human and cultural babel, populated by men and women of very contrasting social and religious backgrounds but who manage to coexist by stratifying themselves in an alternation of various domains, a story that Hagia Sophia herself tells through its incredible walls.

The gastronomy in this context tends to be varied, rich, characterized by excellent raw materials – typical of the Mediterranean area – and by an incredibly vast use of spices, which combines the flavors of North Africa with those of the East. At a traditional level we are in the land of abundance : meats – especially lamb – cheeses, jams, hundreds of different types of olives, different fish, different techniques for cooking traditional dishes overflowing with taste (and calories) and a lot of passion for eating. a lot (especially at breakfast) and good. All this is the basis of the cuisine of one of the young talents of Turkish haute cuisine: Fatih Tutak .

Turk by Fatih Tutak

To understand the cuisine of Fatih Tutak’s restaurant, the Turk in Istanbul, it is necessary to better investigate its past, characterized by years and years of experience around the world. Inherited the passion from his mother, Fatih attended the Turkish cooking school Bolu Mengen and then served at the court of the histrionic and avant-garde Paul Pairet . The first cities he visited as a chef in the kitchens of large hotels were Beijing and Hong Kong, before working in the Marina Bay Sands resort hotel in Singapore. Among the most significant experiences is the one with the 3 stars Nihonryori Ryugin and René Redzepi , with whom he studied, so it can be said, at Noma in Copenhagen. A move to The House on Sathorn in Bangkok in 2015 as head chef and here he is ready to return to Turkey to rediscover his roots and create his own style: the new Turkish cuisine .

So let’s talk about tradition transformed through the taste and wisdom of the chef into something new, never failing to respect the ingredients and the original versions. Fatih’s purpose is really to tell about his Turkey: the taste of mussels eaten on the street with a drop of lemon; the fabulous typical Anatolian breakfasts with those incredible cheeses, meats and breads; bring back the tradition of using some meats (such as goose) and of course kebap , which, rest assured, has nothing to do with what we are used to here in Europe.

Clearly there are the techniques and recipes learned in his worldwide pilgrimage to support the story of this cultural heritage. It is extremely fun to find in the dish forms and textures of a completely different origin to act as a vehicle for the traditional flavors of this land, which are sublimated through the skilled hands of Fatih in a new but very ancient concept .

The skilled soldiers alongside the chef are young cooks, all Turks, half women (or half men, as you prefer), who work completely on sight in a beautiful, elegant but above all welcoming room. The dining room staff is also prepared and kind, a sign of safe, fair, concentrated and focused leadership .

Istanbul: the mini guide to eating

We were lucky enough to visit the city and a couple of other places right with Fatih. The tips I want to give you below are a must-go on your next trip to Istanbul. First of all, obviously Turk Fatih Tutak (Cumhuriyet Hacıahmet Silahşör Cad, Yeniyol Sk. No: 2, 34440 Şişli). Book because the boy is in high demand. I’m not going to tell you to visit the Grand Bazaar, that of spices, and to be careful of taxi drivers, because you will have already learned this from the official guides.

For breakfast, don’t miss SADE Beş Denizler (Teşvikiye, Akkavak Sk. No: 36, 34365 Şişli). Here you will find the best of the traditional Anatolian breakfast. Consider that you will not need lunch after this triumph of dishes. If there is the owner, Adnan Sahin , husband of the chef and guide of Fatih in Anatolia, you will surely fall in love with him.

The best place – and here you will thank me – for real kebap in town is Adana Ocakbaşı in Kurtuluş (Bozkurt Mahallesi, Ergenekon Caddesi, Baysungur Sokak, No: 2 / D, Şişli). Taste all the meat skewers and spiced vegetables at this popular gem in the heart of Şişli. You will find out a lot about the most famous dish of the Turkish tradition.


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