How to make tomato pasta according to 3 chefs
In Milan 3 chefs challenged each other with pasta with tomato sauce and taught us their tricks to make it according to their ideal recipes.
If you are quick to say pasta with tomato sauce, it is more difficult to make this simple dish well. In fact, pasta with tomato is the comfort food par excellence linked to ancestral memories of our childhood.pasta with tomato was the protagonist of a challenge between chefsDo you remember when at the restaurant, while the adults were juggling the courses on the menu, the mother would promptly say: “ For the children, a pasta with tomato sauce ”? How many times have we woken up on Sunday morning embraced by the scent of tomato sauce slowly cooking on the stove? Like a time machine, savoring a plate of pasta with tomato takes us back over the years and makes us feel pampered. So one can well imagine the amazement mixed with fear that Alessandro Ravanà , chef of il Salmoriglio of Porto Empedocle (AG) and Marco Visciola of Il Marin of Genoa felt , when they were seen delivering the gauntlet by Franco Aliberti of Tre Cristi di Milano on the very themereinterpretation of pasta with tomato sauce . The venue for the competition is the Milanese restaurant which opened its kitchen for one evening to guest chefs.
Ravanà tomato pasta
The contest opened with Pomod’oro – In praise of the tomato by Alessandro from Agrigento. A tomato raviolo cooked in tomato water garnished with tomato confit, tomato ice and fennel flower steaks and seasoned with basil oil. At the time of serving, the tomato water at room temperature is poured over the ravioli to reinforce the flavor. The filling of the ravioli is the abstract , the typical Sicilian tomato concentrate, flavored with lemon. The concentrate is that of the Sicilian tradition which is obtained by putting the tomato sauce to set in the sun. ” In this dish – remarks Ravanà –there is all the sun of Sicily. The tomato is of the “Siccagno” variety that grows in arid and sunburnt soils while we make the concentrate and it is tomato sauce left to dry in the sun “.
Aliberti’s pasta with tomato sauce
The Aliberti tomato is grown a few kilometers from the restaurant. In fact, Franco bought, inside the eighteenth-century Villa Airaghi in Settimo Milanese, a plot of land of 1200 square meters where he grows the vegetables that he uses in his kitchen. In addition to the flavor, which derives from the chef ‘s grandmother’s sauce recipe which requires 2 days of preparation, what is surprising is the serving dish that is part of the tableware line that the chef designs and produces using ceramic powder. ” The dish – explains Aliberti –it has the shape of my profile while the recipe is part of the Cibo Non Mente project. Instead of my brain there are spaghetti, instead of the amygdala a piece of bread dipped in the sauce while a single spaghetti acts as a trait d’union that reaches the mouth. The meaning is that some recipes don’t lie to your memory. Spaghetti with tomato sauce, if done as it once was, takes us back in time. The shoe is placed in the amygdala because our memories are kept here “.
Visciola tomato pasta
Bottondoro , Marco Visciola’s tomato buttons , close the challenge . These are small round-shaped ravioli colored by a juice of different tomatoes that are found in the dough characterizing each button. Red, yellow or green, the common denominator of the three tomatoes is their origin: strictly Ligurian. Tomato hearts sautéed with basil leaves, seeds and flowers, parmesan mayonnaise and a sprinkle of tomato powder to season them. “ For me – remembers Visciola – the tomato represents the return to childhood. My grandfather had a vegetable garden and I helped him cultivate it from an early age. But the most gluttonous memory is that linked to summer snacks: freshly picked bread and tomatoes “.
Having picked up the gauntlet of pasta with tomato sauce, the chefs in turn wanted to challenge Aliberti. So on September 26, in Il Salmoriglio, the recipe to be reinterpreted will be the fish soup while on October 24, in Il Marin, the theme could only be pasta with pesto. And which tomato pasta do you prefer among these three?