Here is the winner of the Italian selections of the Bocuse d’Or
The Italian selections for the Bocuse d’Or, held in Alba, have ended: here is the chef who won and will continue the international selections.
At the Italian selections of Le Bocuse d’Or , held in Alba, in the end Martino Ruggieri , an Apulian boy based in Paris, won in the kitchen of the Pavillon Ledoyen of the star collector (Michelin) Yannick Alléno,at the italian selection of bocuse d’or in alba the pugliese martino ruggieri triumphedwhich can boast 6 in its two restaurants in France. It was Alléno who pushed his pupil to participate in this prestigious competition. Martino after the victory candidly admitted that after all, he had never thought about it seriously, unlike the other three contenders: Giuseppe Raciti, Paolo Griffa and Roberta Zulian. But let’s take a step back and understand what Le Bocuse d’Or is.
Considered one of the most important gastronomic arts awards in the world, it is named after its creator, Paul Bocuse , for many the greatest chef of the twentieth century. Since 1987 , the world final has been held every two years in Lyon, which is accessed by chefs who have previously passed the national and continental stages. In France this is such an important event that it bothered the top politicians in supporting the candidates and celebrating the transalpine winner who will represent the country. Italy, on the other hand, has always a little guilty snubbed the event, but this time it will be different and not only because we will host the European final in Turin in June next year.
Preparation of the competitors
In fact, in May 2017 the Bocuse d’Or Italia Academy was born , whose mission is the preparation of competitors. The president is Enrico Crippa , three stars at the Piazza Duomo in Alba, best cook in the world for the Academie Internationale de la Gastronomie. Another important name is in charge of the management: Luciano Tona , already starred and former director of ALMA, the International School of Italian Cuisine of Gualtiero Marchesi. Commis Curtis Clement Mulpas and an exceptional coach such as Luigi Taglienti are also cheering with Martino Ruggieri.
It was almost 6 hours tight, with the four competitors busy cooking in front of a large audience but above all the jury made up of 30 stars of national haute cuisinelined up side by side, while at the presidency table there were with Enrico Crippa, Carlo Cracco and Matthew Peters, winner of Bocuse d’Or 2017. The comparison was held on two types of dishes: the first vegetarian, with presentation Italian starting from a base of common ingredients: the PDO Rice of the Carnaroli variety Baraggia, the chicken eggs and the Gorgonzola PDO. For the second: Piedmontese breed meat and sweetbreads. Stadium cheer and conduct of the sparkling event by Tinto, Decanter’s well-known voice on Radio 2, dishes available in the lounge area for the benefit of the insiders, who were content to take some photos.
The winner’s dishes
Martino Ruggieri has decided to use typical products of his homeland, Puglia, but reshaping the flavors in a completely original way. The vegetarian dish called Puglia.Italia.Mondo has a great chromatic impact : warm puff of pumpkin a soft cream made with almonds, bread with cereals and puffed rice; Warm salad of chicory, pumpkin seed and parsley oil, pomace sauce; rice and egg velvet, fragrant spices, fermentation of red fruits and pomace, riz au gorgonzola , citrus fruit and egg yolk mayonnaise with salt and olive oil.
Equally spectacular is the course of meat , Nel Trullo : Piedmontese beef, soft heart of pasta with turnip greens and anchovies, sweetbreads, seaweed, porcini mushrooms and reduced meat juice, potato crust. Beetroot, shallot and juniper. Dense ragout of sweetbreads, burrata, caviar, corn, pollen and crunchy sage. The toppings: bell pepper, onions and dried broad bean purée. Warm diamond of artichokes, beetroot, green apple, mayonnaise with olive oil, parsley oil and cacioricotta, black figs glazed with pine cone juice and crispy potatoes with pine nuts. Corn-based sauce, anchovy sauce, turnip greens, beetroot.
Bocuse d’or: Italian perspectives
As previously mentioned, the next appointment is in Turin in June for the European final, where our Martino will compete with other 19 chefs from the old continent. an opportunity to discuss Italy’s prospects in this and other events with the chefs on the juryBut the day in Alba was also an opportunity to discuss with the chefs on the jury the prospects of Italy in this and other events and the importance of the same: the example of the long tail of benefits brought to the whole sector by the victory Bottura’s 50 best was enlightening. We then spoke of the need for national institutional support, currently inadequate, which should accompany that of sponsors to support, not so much the media circus of the spectacular final events, but in providing financial support to the competitors who in the long months of preparation do not they can do more.
There was no lack of critical voices, Alfonso Iaccarino above all, precisely on the sponsor issue, whose necessary presence sometimes clashes with the values and ten-year conduct of his and other colleagues, committed to supporting small local artisans. It is precisely biodiversity that is the greatest wealth of our cuisine, which differs from that of France in the greater centrality of the raw material with respect to the technique. Paradoxically, in competitions such as the Bocuse d’Or, the local specificities can even represent a disadvantage if they are not combined with extreme rigor and if one thinks that the Italianness factor may be enough.
Gennaro Esposito correctly spoke of having to adapt to the rules of competition using a sports metaphor: if you want to compete on a hundred meters, you need to train in a certain way and follow an adequate running strategy that is very different from that suitable for covering long distances. In short, until we are able to impose more homegrown rules and parameters we will have to compromise with those imposed by those who have excelled in this field for some time.