Elementary Parco Appio, a true Roman trattoria
A trattoria with the flavors of the past has opened in the Appio park in Rome, L’Elementare. Appetizers, first and second courses, you are spoiled for choice.
“ We are a true Roman trattoria, popular and straightforward, without frills or cleaning up … all handle and substance ”. This is how Trattoria Elementare presents itself on social networks, which since June 1st opened its doors to the fresh air of Parco Appio . A newcomer to the super team of the gastronomic project that had already captured the attention of the public last summer.
The importance of the host
In this multipurpose space, in front of the Egeria spring, in a separate area but close to the pizzeria of the same name, with dedicated covers, it was decided this year to also develop the format of the restaurant , because, in life, you don’t live alone. of fine dining . And Federico Feliziani reminds us well , the young and volcanic mind of the entire project who strongly wanted the return of the restaurant and the figure of the host to the center of the scene . An innkeeper who converses with the guest in a light-hearted style, devoted to that rough and everyday sociability that struggles to make itself heard today.
Around thick tables, rigorously coming from waste materials – because Parco Appio wants to be a reference for sustainability and reduced environmental impact – set and crowded with smiles, toasts and forks. Those same tables ready to welcome craft beers , natural wines and above all tastings that exude authenticity. In a nerve center in the heart of Rome – between Appia Antica, Ardeatina, Parco della Caffarella and Appia Pignatelli – the Trattoria Elementare of Parco Appio stands as an exceptional comfort zone, true and true, which shoots a burst from its kitchen a battery of hearty dishes and a few euros from 7pm until closing.
The proposals on the menu
As in any self-respecting trattoria, the mouth does not take your breath away and immediately silences us with a welcome to start with marinated ham offered by us. Sweet and savory that stimulates the order of the entire menu made up of ever- green and occasional off- menu proposals . The many domestic traditions of the Capitoline cuisine are back to the surface with appetizers such as boiled meatballs and those of the grandmother that mathematically smear every centimeter of the body surface as well as the picchiapò – recipe for the recovery of boiled meat – here served on a steep slice of bread bruscato. Here tradition rulesAnd after meatballs and bruschetta are a must among the starters of the fried food , the flowers of pumpkin , cod and mixed “of all that if some ‘fresh fry of the day.” You do not skimp on the raw material, the same used in the pizzeria, and it is demonstrated with the Italian appetizer with the products of the Il Radichino farm such as semi- wild farmed cured meats and raw milk cheeses accompanied, to degrease, by the fermented home and from the focaccia of Mirko Rizzo steaming exit from the adjacent pizzeria. And to reaffirm the fidelity and the search for thick agricultural products, with the sound of fraschetta, on Tuesdays you can also try Vitaliano Bernabei’s porchetta, a legend in the field.
On the carbohydrate front we go straight to the point, with tonnarello cheese and pepper , half sleeve carbonara and rigatone alla pajata : an authentic treatise of archaic flavors that every patron of Parco Appio should have tattooed in their DNA. Vulgar dishes in the most positive sense of the word, ancient in taste, sweet in depth. And if you want to avoid the savory slap of pecorino, you can opt for the Mancini spaghettone ajo, ojo , anchovies and breadcrumbs or the lasagna der peasant with smoked provola salad , mozzarella and parmesan . And anyway, as in every Trattoria with a capital T, there are also half portions.
There is no restaurant without a side dish and without a second
Spinach “buro and anchovies”, agretti with lemon, chicory, burnt potatoes thrown into bowls and plates as vintage as possible, personally sought after with obsessive skill by Federico. And if there is no trattoria without a side dish, there is no side dish without a second: saltimbocca alla romana, chicken with peppers and then what? Grilled meat, only on order on Sunday as there was no tomorrow.
And between talks, music, presentation of books and records, shows, there is always room for a dessert too . Tiramisu, desserts of the day, “de-season” fruit swoop down to the table loudly telling the love for food in its freest and most rebellious form in a place that does not want to be just a restaurant but life, entertainment at three hundred and sixty degrees . And if you want to take a piece of Elementare home at all costs, there is also a takeaway while for lunch the offer is reduced to the Natural Bar.