Davide Scabin: I am, we are


Davide Scabin: I am, we are

Davide Scabin is the brilliant chef of the Combal.Zero restaurant in Rivoli. Roy Paci portrays her for Bittersweet.

“ Only those who dare to go a little further will discover how far they can go ” (cit. Sergio Bambarén). Rivers of words, of obvious ink, of things already said and heard. The risk of writing about Davide Scabin is precisely this. I am aware of this and therefore I will try to avoid words such as genius, crazy, visionary or avant-garde, which too often, sometimes even exaggeratedly, are stuck on him.davide scabin has a difficult voice, oblique and over the top, but absolutely irreproducibleDavide is, first of all, a Man. The capital U is not a typo: it is my very personal choice to give value, at least graphic, to the basic concept of my articles. I speak of Men, of choices, of mistakes, of memories, of remorse, of successes and failures. I’m talking about me, you, us and those who manage to make themselves heard in the midst of thousands of confused voices. Here, this is Davide Scabin, a well-defined voice in the midst of the noise . Arrogant enough, presumptuous enough, rational enough. A difficult voice, always a bit oblique and over the top but absolutely irreproducible, a sort of Brian Eno of the kitchen. In fact, the philosophical concept of his art by association with Eno can translate into food for non-chef .

 

combal
The interior of the combal.zero in Rivoli

 

I have known him for some time but every time we meet again it is as if I had never known him. Let me explain: David is one of those men who continually renews himself . Do you remember that funny movie entitled 50 times the first kiss? Here, the chef is a bit like the protagonist: every morning she wakes up and has completely forgotten the life she lived up to that moment. He starts his 24-hour journey again with new eyes and new ideas. Davide Scabin is like that. A thought-grinder, a creative who escapes the very rules of creativity, a restless one who chases dreams with the sharp lucidity of a man aware of his abilities and strong in his history. Davide is brutal, aggressive enough to make you understand that he cannot be stopped, or limited or harnessed in the rules of common living. He stays out of it, he wants to stay out of it as much as he is totally immersed in an environment that often dictates what can be done and what is better not.

Roy and Davide ph by Elvio Gorelli

For me, his cuisine is played on the barbed wire of the presumption that only a great professional can afford. A professional who was also very lucky to find a sous-chef who could understand his intricate mental world and help him make it edible material.the sous-chef of combal.zero, giuseppe rambaldi, is davide’s indispensable right-hand man Giuseppe ‘Peppe’ Rambaldi is a champion of the kitchen and a person of enormous artistic sensitivity. The essential b-side for listening to mind-boggling vinyl. So here it is the Combal.Zero dinner , a close-up with a fire focused on taste, the real one that we would all like to hear with every bite. I would like to say that among the many courses I had a boost of love (and I’m not exaggerating) for the Battuto di fassona with chicory salad, Jerusalem artichoke, cold bagna cauda and truffle caviar and for the quail skewer with seared croaker , cucumber and spinach roll with sesame and soy sauce. The list could be very long but I would not like to reveal too much to those who want to go and see and taste for themselves.

 

quail and croaker
Skewer of quail with seared croaker

 

“ I am a mystic – concretist ”, is how Davide Scabin defines himself today. “ A researcher anxious to extend food to the limits of his capabilities. I would not want my work and that of my team to be limited only to satisfying demanding or expert palates. I would like to be able to redefine the basic unit of measurement of Italian gastronomy, what we all call a trattoria, into something refined, studied and modern “. So many projects are born, some take shape, while others remain in the drawer waiting for the right opportunity to explode. Now it’s time for Food For Fighting, his personal attempt to make food a space of well-being and health for those who are fighting against terrible diseases or for those who are limited, by allergies and physical pathologies, to eat a few things often presented in a poor and uninviting way.

 

tartare and chicory
Fassona beef with chicory salad

 

David is many things: mystery and certainty fused together, confusion and order united and complementary, courage and stability that coexist. If I really have to use a term, I would define it as generative cuisine ,davide scabin’s cuisine is generative, hypnotizes and remains firm in the thoughts of those who experience itcapable of mesmerizing the holistic emotions of his gastronomic projects in our brain, recreating neural clones that, wandering in the unexplored areas of the subconscious, reproduce in a chain in our thoughts. I like to talk to him, exchange opinions and be free to tell him the madness I would like to do in music until I reach the apogee of artistic syncretism. I know that he understands me, I know that I can find fertile ground even for unexpected collaborations and I know, indeed I am sure, that men like this enrich me even with a single word.

Davide Scabin

And his word has a sound that tends towards indecipherable harmonics but that propagate in the ether creating the basis for an evergreen voice out of the chorus. In a recent interview Brian Eno said: “A lot of things will happen in the future: some will suck, some will be wonderful, and I can’t wait to get to know both of them “. Here is David, you too continue to amaze us with your phantasmagoric ataraxia, you owe it to us.


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