Cafè Les Paillotes: cuisine inspired by the great masters


Cafè Les Paillotes: cuisine inspired by the great masters

Matteo Iannaccone, chef of the Cafè Les Paillotes in Pescara, infuses in his kitchen all the experiences gathered by his masters: Roy Paci tells us about it.

“ The wisest of all councilors, time ” (cit. Pericles). Matteo Iannaccone is the chef of the Cafè Les Paillotes in Pescara , in Piazza Le Laudi. Bravo is really good, badass is seriously badass but he has always had a gripe: he would like to live 26-hour days.matteo iannaccone spent 10 years in the kitchens of Ducasse, Perbellini and Heinz BeckNo more and no less; it would take him an extra couple of hours to learn new things, taste unfamiliar foods and even, when he can, sit still in front of the TV to watch one of his beloved films. Matteo is just over thirty years old and fully falls into the category of young chefs (let’s not call them more emerging because they have already crossed this border) of our country. He is from Caserta but lives in Pescara ” a city that I like very much because it is on a human scale and before judging, people listen, they try to know“. He has always been a cook, ever since he decided to go to the hotel school because he thought he would have studied less and instead has since been gently trapped in the kitchen’s plots. He directs an all-male brigade and is truly an excellent helmsman. Certainly the 10 years spent in the most important Italian kitchens and beyond ( Ducasse , Perbellini and Heinz Beck to name a few) have also forged him to the role of guide. ” I am authoritarian, yes, but right: I demand a lot but I also leave space for those who work alongside me to propose ideas and changes on the dishes, I was taught this and this is how I try to do now that I have this responsibility “.

 

Matteo Iannaccone
Langoustine tartare with freeze-dried raspberry

 

The restaurant is elegant but not excessive, the guys in the dining room courteous and well-prepared and the dishes, that is to say, a journey between quotes from the masters and personal ideas . The anchovies in a crust of aromatic herbs with pepper with three textures are very good:Matteo recognizes the importance of those who taught him the trade and admits that he still has to learnair, jelly and puree; choreographic and very refined the scampi tartare with freeze-dried raspberry, yogurt and lime sauce and mint infusion; simple but memorable the mullets in the garden , placed on broad beans and wild mixed salad, as well as the octopus with grilled artichokes, marjoram and pistachio pesto and orange sauce. There are many ideas suggested to him by Heinz Beck who, as a good guide, “ manages to round each plate, lighten it and make it leaner, more graceful ”. I really like the fact that Matteo recognizes the importance of those who taught him the trade and also that he admits without problems that he still has a lot to learn “because when you find yourself managing a kitchen you don’t have much time to travel and have new experiences. I would like to go to the East, taste different ingredients and realize that maybe pecorino does not only break with broad beans but why not, maybe even with an Indonesian tuber! 

 

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mullet in the garden with broad beans and wild mixed salad

 

Curious and enterprising, Matteo is a tireless worker and a boy who tries not to let the family who still live in Caserta miss his presence and therefore “on the evening of my last shift before the weekly rest I get in the car and fly home. I never relax but my son’s smile (and the idea of ​​the second one that will arrive in days) give me a new, inexhaustible charge “.

 

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octopus with grilled artichokes, marjoram and pistachio pesto and orange sauce

 

That’s why he would like more time, because he has to do, a lot to do, to reach a greater, more mature, more personal gastronomic awareness. He tells me that for him cooking is immortal : immortal in the sense that it continues to renew itself and never stops reserving surprises and new suggestions; immortal because it changes according to the places and the hands that shape it; immortal because it survives every time and place, it is rationality and exoticism, culture and folklore, tradition and future. Yeah, time. That constant presence that we all perceive but that we cannot control, that passes through us and that we pass through. The time that Matteo consumes so greedily that he wants more, a bit like his cooking, a taste race that could easily last 26 hours.


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