5 ways to cook with peas according to the chefs


5 ways to cook with peas according to the chefs

If it is true that peas are often uncomfortable to pick with a fork, let’s follow the advice of these chefs to cook them more creatively.

Spring peas  are known to be an elusive food ,  especially if you insist – as the label dictates – in eating them with a fork and not with a spoon. It is also useless to object that peas are not skewered with forks, but collected,in restaurants, peas are often blended, pulverized, cut or replaced by sproutsbecause the forks are actually designed for the sole purpose of dropping the peas they pretend to be picking. On Sunday evening, after a lunch based on grandma ‘s soup and buckets of peas flavored with onion and bacon, check pockets, sleeves and shoes: never, for some abstruse ergonomic calculation, that these very light and tiny green spheres have slipped into in the neck or in the braghetta. How to fix it? Blender, dryer, freezer: these are the three keywords of the chefs who interpret the peas in their dishes . Lunch at the grandmother’s is one thing, dinner at a restaurant is another: woe betide if a pea crosses the Pillars of Hercules on the table! So in all the restaurants of a certain level, the peas are always blended, pulverized, blanched, deprived of the skin and cut in half, or even replaced with the sprouts of the legume itself.

 

  1. santo-trastevereIn Trastevere in Rome, da Santo , restaurant and cocktail bar, chef Edoardo Meuti blanches the peas, blends them and thickens them in order to obtain a creamy gel with which to finish a raw cuttlefish carpaccio , cut as if it were Colonnata lard. It is a fresh and spring appetizer, a tribute to the traditional cuttlefish and peas in zimino cooked for hours and hours on the fire. And if in the cuttlefish in zimino there is tomato, from Santo the acidity is given by drops of caramelized red onion liquid.
  2. In Rome there is a brave restaurant where the peas are whole, natural, stewed with an idea of ​​onion. The restaurant in question is Chinappi , the kingdom of quality fish in and around Rome. Here, in fact, the peas are the background of a cuttlefish, dirty with its black, simply passed to the plate. The result is an essential dish, refined in taste and colors. Green and black and the eye is satisfied. How to eat peas? As you prefer, the host Stefano is not horrified at anything. On the contrary.
  3. monte due torri gourmetOn the same level as cuttlefish and peas there is pasta and peas. Who has never eaten tortellini with cream, ham and peas? In recent years, cream has been abolished from most fine dining restaurants: but the pasta and the peas have remained. In Genzano, a few kilometers from Rome, thirty-two years old Josè Amici, who has been at the helm of the Monte 2 Torri Gourmet restaurant for a few months , blanches, cuts and peels dozens of small houses of peas and fresh broad beans. Because? To dress ravioli stuffed with pecorino romano. A pecorino sauce and a broad bean cream enrich this first course, a tribute to the cream and pea tortelli and the Roman spring side dish par excellence: the vignarola.
  4. Peas can also become ice cream. Valeria Piccini, from the starred restaurant Da Caino  in Montemerano in the province of Grosseto, prepares a pea ice cream with parmesan flakes, olive oil and balsamic vinegar as a welcome snack for her customers (our cover photo). Before tackling Ravioli di Mullet alla Livornese with smoked broth, Risotto alla vignarola with smoked lamb tartare and Pigeon, endive, hazelnuts and chocolate, it is necessary to sweeten and cool down , and then heat up in one go.
  5. le-chateaubriandAnd then there is the ingenious folly of those who centrifuge the peels of peas to obtain a juice with which to blend the largest bleached and cooled peas in the thermomix. Who is the chef who thought it up? Inaki Aizpitarte: at his  Le Chateubriand in Paris you have to book months in advance. And it is at Chateubriand that Inaki uses this frozen pea cream in a dessert of strawberries, blanched peas, elderflower infusion, anise-mint leaves and wild mint.

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